Touched by angel's wings
These pieces feature rough labradorite stones suspended from a tourmaline chain and pearl stud. There are two legends about labradorite which is found mainly on the Labrador coast of Canada. One is that an angel’s wing touched the earth where these stones are found, giving them their iridescent quality. The other is an Inuit legend that the northern lights fell to earth in the same spot. They are part of the feldspar group of stones, all of which have an internal iridescence and include sunstone, moonstone and opals.
Grey pearl, blue tourmaline and Labradorite.
18ct white gold.
as in champagne…
Probably one of my all time favourite pieces. As the name suggests bubbles in a champagne glass – one of Kiveen’s favourite things – was the inspiration and again I love their asymmetry – they really light up any outfit and are as at home with denim as satin. They were also the first piece I used iolite in – a much under used but beautiful denim blue stone.
Iolite, peridot and aqua. 18ct white gold.
The design of the pendant on these earrings really reminded me of the Celtic shapes found on crosses in South West Wales and elsewhere in Celtic countries. The colour reminiscent of those amazing sunsets over the sea.
Pink sapphire mini hoop earrings set in 18ct rose gold with detachable amethyst and pink sapphire drops.
Great Ormond Street Hospital
These earrings feature two moss agate stones which were sold in aid of Great Ormond Street Hospital so I thought it only polite to name the earrings after the hospital!
9ct white gold earrings set with green sapphire and green agate discs. Green agate discs 13 mm and sapphires 4.5 x 2.5 mm drops.
A traveller's dream
Halo'd moon – one of my best sellers, I have remade these a few times. I was delighted when one of my goldsmiths found some half moon shaped diamonds and asked me if I wanted to design pieces around them, I used them all in different ways. These really are a travellers dream as they look cool on their own but have magic tiny hooks so you can suspend any drops you like and they completely transform.
Half moon diamond earrings surrounded by micro set diamonds in 18 carat white gold including an invisible hook to suspend drops.
A few years ago a client of mine asked me to create a few casual pieces to take to Ibiza as she didn’t want to take her more expensive jewels. I created some earrings similar to these but in silver. We liked the design so much that we repeated it with all sorts of different rough stones, including rubies, labradorite, sapphires and spinel. One of the reasons they’re so popular is that they are some of the most comfortable earrings you will ever wear – all the better to party in!
18 carat gold wire and rough apatite stone earrings.
Colour changing gems
Shifting sands – when I’m designing pieces for the collection the source of inspiration is often the stones themselves. I can while away hours gazing at different stones and am always attracted to the unusual and surprising. Some stones, most notably Alexandrite and Sapphire, actually change colour depending on the light in which they’re worn. At the most extreme, an Alexandrite can be green in daylight and red by candle light or in electric light. These earrings feature colour change sapphires so I wanted the name to reflect their ability to change hence “shifting” and sands because the colour of the topaz is like sand.
Earrings comprising golden topaz and colour change sapphires set in 18ct rose gold.
Spring leaves – Another of my sources of inspiration is nature and the seasons – I love the way these green tourmaline stones appear suspended from their gold setting like leaves on a tree and their colour has that same iridescence as newly grown leaves on trees in spring.
Green tourmaline chandelier earrings in 18ct yellow gold.
Warm summer memories
Summer skies – I saw a pair of antique aquamarine earrings in a small antique jewellery shop in Vienna on a beautiful summer day, what struck me about them is that so often aquamarine is set in platinum or white gold but set in old rose gold seemed to bring out the aqua blue even more – I was also reminded of those light pink clouds at the end of a warm summer day……
It was a good day as I also saw the most beautiful room in saffron and aqua which inspired another pair of earrings I named “Oh Vienna” after one of my favourite cities and one of my favourite songs!
Green beryl and rose cut diamond earrings set in 18ct yellow gold.
Good enough to eat
Turkish delight – I remember the first time I had real Turkish delight (no disrespect to Fry’s which is all I had had until then) and falling in love with the colour.
When I saw these topaz slices that looked good enough to eat I knew what I would be calling the earrings!
Topaz slices and cognac diamond earrings in 18ct rose gold.
Twilight falls – I wanted to experiment with the colour of gold for these earrings, not black but grey, so not night but twilight!
Lilac and blue sapphire earrings in grey 18ct gold.
Suffragettes – very pleasingly, given their name, these earrings were the first piece of jewellery E&K ever sold! The name is another tribute to those amazing women who fought so hard so we could vote. The colours are probably more pink than purple, but like Bubbles they’re a statement piece and the person who bought them wears them with a very simple black dress.
Pink and green tourmaline. 18ct yellow gold.
I wanted to create a simple gold earring with a hint of colour and texture and my signature invisible hook so the simple stud can be transformed into something much more dramatic by adding a drop or pendant. The rope adds the texture and we did these in white as well as yellow gold, set with blue sapphires. If you have a double piercing in your ear they look great side by side and it you turn them in your ear the rope cross becomes a rope kiss!
Yellow sapphire earrings with invisible hooks to suspend drops, all in 18ct yellow gold.
Dark to light
Kiveen of Edith & Kiveen was an artist and I’ve always wanted to paint with stones. To me the most influential jeweller of the 20th century is JAR and he is the master of shading in jewellery. These pay a little homage to both JAR and Kiveen in that I chose the stones so their colour would flow from dark to light. The downside with the name though is I get the tune – blue moon – stuck in my head when I look at them!
Aquamarine and iolite earrings set in 18ct white gold with detachable natural turquoise drops.
Hope, purity & dignity
The central piece in the “Grace” collection, these earrings were inspired by the suffragette movement colours, green – for hope, white for purity and purple for dignity. They also use the stones often used in suffragette jewellery namely peridot, amethyst and moonstone. I love asymmetry and cushion cut stones and am a passionate feminist so these earrings ticked lots of boxes. Delighted to say they sold quite early on in the show. They also reflected theme of the show, which was the suffragette movement, as 2018, the year of the show, marked the 100th anniversary of women gaining the right to vote. I always think of those women when I vote and what they had to do and to suffer so I might go to the ballot box. I wanted to create a beautiful tribute to these women, which I hope is what these earrings are, so I featured them on the cover of the brochure for that year’s collection.
18 carat white gold earrings one featuring a 9mm chequerboard cushion cut amethyst, an oval faceted moonstone and green sapphire briolette bead and one a 9mm chequerboard cushion cut peridot, an oval faceted moonstone and lilac sapphire briolette bead.
Water is known for its life-giving qualities and the Romans more than most appreciated this. The style of this ring pays homage to Roman jewellery so it felt fitting to give it a Latin name – interestingly it was bought by a very bright lawyer who almost certainly studied Latin!
Aquamarine and diamond ring in 18ct yellow gold.
Lost in memory
One of my absolute favourite rings, the particularly fine Persian turquoise stone surrounded, lagoon like, by coral pink sapphires – I know I’m supposed to be pleased when I sell pieces but I still miss this one and the memories it evokes of south sea lagoons and islands.
Natural turquoise ring with a light and dark pink sapphire surround set in 18ct white and rose gold
Aquamarine again, but this time set with rubies to show off its cool and water like qualities whilst it shows off the rubies' fire and warm characteristics. In this collection I focused on the ancient artistic technique of chiaroscuro, Caravaggio being the past master of the technique.
A 10 x 8mm emerald cut aquamarine ring 18 carat white gold rubover setting flanked by two small ruby baguettes.
As I mentioned earlier cushion cuts are my favourite shape. I’ve done this ring with a pale amethyst, as in this one, a dark amethyst, a peridot, a citrine and an aquamarine. Scatter cushions!
Chequerboard pale amethyst set in 18ct rose gold.
Simply takes its name from the beautiful tsavorite garnets in the ring – I once substituted a tsavorite garnet for an emerald for a client who was much too heavy handed to wear an emerald, which is a much softer stone. At first she was horrified at the thought of not having an emerald but when she saw how gorgeous the tsavorite was she quickly agreed!
An 18 carat fine yellow gold ring with 5 tsavorite garnets in rubover settings.
Natural & polished
Rough and smooth nights – I am fascinated by stones in their natural form. This one is in labradorite. I made the same design in peridot, aquamarine and spinel. This shows the stone as nature formed it, and then in all its glory once the lapidarist (stone cutter) has released its true potential.
A rough labradorite and a cabouchon labradorite drop set in an 18ct black gold torque bracelet. These bracelets are also available in peridot, aquamarine or spinel.
Raj green – I vividly remember seeing an antique glass full of polished emeralds from India at the Topkapi palace in Istanbul and just standing looking at it mesmerised. This bracelet of emerald beads was my attempt to recreate the magic of seeing so many beautifully polished emeralds all in one place – only this time on a wrist! Such echoes of the Raj.
Emerald. 18ct yellow gold.
Diamond hug (yellow gold) – by the time of the 2017 collection, a year after BREXIT started tearing the country apart and Trump had goodness knows what in mind for the US and the rest of the world, I felt hugs were greatly needed.
These featured in the Fortuna collection – this collection was named after the Roman goddess of fortune so she felt a very appropriate messenger for this collection when we all felt in need of some good fortune and hugs!
18ct white gold fine torq bracelet featuring two old cut diamonds set in platinum.
Circle of sunshine
I’m a big fan of Cirque de Soleil so was a bit nervous about copying their name, but decided they wouldn’t mind being associated with a bracelet that looked acrobatic and contained a touch of sun in the citrine and yellow sapphire stones at each end.
18ct yellow gold torq bangle set with one chequer board citrine and four yellow cabochon tourmaline.
Circle of rose
Being a big fan of Cirque de Soleil, I made variations of this piece – similar to the gold version, the rose colour references French wine only drunk in the sun – when it seems to have no ill effect at all!
18ct rose gold torq bangle set with five pink cabochon tourmaline.
In more recent collections I have started to re- or up-cycle pieces. This circle of diamonds was hidden in a fairly ugly brooch, which had probably been made and remade lots of times already. The simple circle of such beautiful stones shone out and we managed to keep the stones in their original silver setting – jewellers used to set diamonds in silver for the colour before platinum was discovered at the end of the 19th century so a quick way to guess the age of a piece is to see what metal it is set in. This proved such a popular piece I had to find enough diamonds for two more!
Antique diamonds set in silver and gold on a 18ct yellow gold chain.
As you will have gathered by now the naming of pieces is a precious and vital part of building each year’s collection. The naming ceremony is always carried out with my husband, who has many interests – including owning two bars. By the time I designed this piece I had already named a few pieces after clients, friends or family: Lisa’s necklace, Julia’s ring… feeling a little left out, my husband asked me why I hadn’t named a piece after him. One of these necklaces was among his favourite pieces, so I felt it only right to name it after him and one of his interests – a bar – a play on the word given the shape of the necklace. This one was the most dramatic in black gold and emeralds; we also did white gold with pink sapphires, and yellow gold with diamonds. It has proved one of my most successful pieces for which my husband Peter, naturally, takes all the credit! The colours of these pendants give them their cocktail name.
A Peter’s bar necklace in 18ct black gold set with five emeralds.
Connection to the 20s
Another recycled piece, the centre being a 1920s tie pin – so the name retains the piece’s original identity!
The central piece in this necklace was originally a tie pin.
One 2.5mm diamond tie pin head suspended from an 18 carat white gold chain set with one 1.5mm baguette, one 2.5mm brilliant and one 3.5 x 2.5mm pear shaped diamond. Total length of chain 74cm.
One of the qualities I most want my jewellery to have is talismanic – I want it to protect the wearer and give them strength. Many years ago I realised I wanted a bracelet I could wear all the time which would protect and give me strength. In the past I have often given friends and family tiny chains with a stone or two with magic powers – often worn for years on end!
18ct white gold evil eye pendant set with black star sapphires, blue sapphires and diamonds.
A single yellow diamond drop of sunlight.
Wouldn’t it be lovely to capture a drop of golden sun and wear it round your neck especially if the drop in question is a yellow diamond bead!
A long 18ct yellow gold chain set with a pale star sapphire, a green sapphire and a yellow sapphire with a yellow diamond briolette set in a gold circle pendant.
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